Guide to indoor growing
It 's well known that it is absolutely necessary to maintain certain environmental factors under control in indoor growing.
Let's see how to best manage to get outstanding results and get the most out of our cultivation.
During the growth phase is good that the hours of light are daily 18-20. At the start of flowering must move rapidly to about 12 hours, to simulate the arrival of autumn.
After about three weeks of flowering you can add a quarter of an hour of daylight every 2 days to get to 13 hours of light at the end of the third week of flowering. This, though in nature the daytime should be decreasing and not increasing, it's a little trick that will speed up the time of collection.
It 's important not to overdo it, however, not exceed 13 hours, otherwise the stress of the plant and a sure worsening of her general condition.
During the growth temperature should be kept as constant as possible during the day and night to stimulate the production of hormones responsible for growth of lush foliage and healthy roots.
The ideal climate is around 24 degrees, pointing out that the stability and consistency are more important than the precise temperature. Not so for the fateful battagliate 24, possibly causing constant changes to shock fans and heaters.
During flowering the temperature differential will go to emphasize the difference in temperature between day and night. You can bring in roughly 27 during daylight hours and at least 20 during the dark, by stimulating the activity of hormones of flowering.
The use of light is crucial, and from the third day of growth the plants need to have all the available lighting. A fast and healthy development are working to get better right away.
Do not make the common mistake of wanting to save a few pennies by delaying the ignition of the lamp, maybe only a accendendone.
The light provides the energy needed to grow plants, and an initial phase weakened by an injection of twilight can score negative throughout the cycle.
If you have them available you can dab the costs with the use of neon during this early phase.
Even moisture is important, make sure that the environment has at least 80% humidity. The lack of foliage on small plants does not allow great breathability.
You can use small glass or plastic sheets to facilitate a suitable microclimate, keeping in mind that size must be appropriate and allow air to circulate inside.
Do not use fans, too harsh for young plants, but allow air circulation drilling the top of the greenhouse.
For each plant in a more is considered an increase in the days required for the growth, because of the sharing of resources.
After a couple of weeks at most, with the plants well-formed, you must pass to complete and direct lighting.
Remove the plants from the greenhouse / nursery when the first leaves develop.
If you have HPS lamps studied the closest point that plants can tolerate without burning or curling leaves due to heat.
You also have to monitor and correct humidity and temperature, which will be altered by the intense heat lamps, acting on ventilation.
If you are equipped with compact fluorescent lamps type Phytolite you can safely place them a few inches from the top of the plants, because the bulbs will be lukewarm.
At this stage it is also important to the food, be sure to properly use fertilizers and root stimulators for growth.
Proper administration of nutrients also affects the values of pH and EC, the development of the fauna of beneficial microorganisms, photosynthesis and resistance to attack by pathogens.
And 'good rule to administer the nutrient solution at the same time, better than the evening before turning off the lights.
If the solution is not prepared at the moment but is available in a tank (in the case of hydroponics systems or automated) must maintain a constant temperature (optimum at 22 degrees) because they do not degrade.
A good idea would also equip a pump to keep the water in motion by ensuring that the fertilizers not settle and an oxygenator (or a "drop-down" of water) to a rate of oxygen always perfect.
When making the measurement of pH and EC are off pump and oxygenator.
Monitor the acidity and EC of the nutrient solution is required irrespective of the culture, if you want to achieve a professional result.
In the case of crops with good support is also measure the pH of the substrate.
This factor affects incredibly life of the plant even when the value is not so inadequate as to indicate the suffering on the leaves, may affect the absorption of nutrients, making slow and stunted growth.
Acidity is also influenced by fertilizer here because you need to take measurements at regular intervals close and scrupulously respect the dosages, avoiding interactions between different brands or products belonging to different lines.
Although some deficiencies of other elements, like calcium, can help to alter the pH. Attention therefore supplements.
If the plants are suffering the signals out there, you just have to interpret them.
If the leaves curl for example could be a sign of excessive evaporation. Then check that sufficient irrigation, the moisture is normal and that CA is not too high, resulting in a slow water transport to leaves.
Parties may indicate reddish climate too cold, or alkalinity deficiency of phosphorus.
Yellow leaves may be normal at the end of the cycle, but can also indicate low pH or temperature too high. Some parasites can cause the leaves wither.
Dark green leaves with reddish petioles indicate an excess of manganese.
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Tags: management growroom , guides , lighting , measurements of EC , cultivation techniques
