Nathan Williams.

We continue with the guide for the do-it-yourself building materials recovered in a simple and inexpensive NFT system, designed for outdoor use electronic devices without it 'conoscinze specifications. Here the first part.

PIPE PLUG

We insert the plugs in their place on the ends of the tubes and let us mark the point at which they arrive.
And 'well sissare a plug only for a time, to prevent the pipes bending itself pull away from their position.

Let's remember to align the caps recalling that the drain hole must be face down, and that of the entry in the tube following at the top.
This will create gradients that will help to oxygenate the water during his tour. The roots will appreciate this attention certainly.

Here I've used for hydraulic cement given to me years ago, spread it very well on the tube and cap.

Now we insert the cap pushing to the bottom and let's keep it stationary for about 5 minutes because to stabilize.

It will take a day because it dries completely. The tampi however depend on the material you are using.

Overflow

I immediately attacked the pump had to be measured with an overflow. Let's see how to fix it.

1. Adjust to a minimum the pump.

2. Add greater support to the bearing structure in the front. I solved it with a metal piece that I have found out, fixed with two screws. This has arranged in a simple manner the slope.

3. Raise the tube until everyone does not allow a perfect sliding into the next. I had to raise the whole lot higher than I had planned to give the correct slope, but this has definitely improved things.

These devices have practically solved the problem, but I still had to twist a little rubber tube to reduce the flow of water. It seems that my little pump, while at least regulated, not so small after all.

PREPARE THE GLASSES

Now concern ourselves containers that will house the plants. Take the plastic cups: we pierce it quite a bit ', so semplificarmi work I chose to follow a pattern of small dots and draw first, in order to make the same holes in the same way in each cup without thinking so much thinking.
The important thing is it enough: I am made 9 per container on the bottom and 6 on the sides around the base, taking the glasses upside down.

If we were now the Perlite and vermiculite, which are thin substrates, would pass through the holes. So the bottom put a little 'balls of expanded clay, well washed to remove dust. I have found a practical wash directly into the cups, passing them in a bucket of water.

THE PLANT!

Since I did not want to wait and wanted to see my system once in operation, I chose to buy seedlings instead of seeds in the soil.
Starting from seed gives better results, so if you are impatient like me buy them.
First you need to place the medium that host plants.
I opted for a mixture 50/50 of vermiculite and perlite to have the right aeration and moisture retention.
Unless you plan to grow potatoes will not need anything like that to my 12-liter bucket.

Well, now clean up the plants from the ground using his fingers, trying to disturb the roots as little as possible. Then immergiamole in a bucket of clean water and gently wash away the residue.
Unraveled the roots carefully, this whole operation is critical to success.

Now we take the glasses down on the bottom with clay, we keep in place around the plant and pour the mixture of vermiculite and perlite.

The substrate must not be very compressed, but must allow the plants to be well supported.
Now quickly submerge the glass with the map in the bucket with water and then go into the slot inside the PVC pipe.

BUT THEIR ROOTS ARE TOO MANY!

Ok, you got to be planted strawberries and you're wondering how to get that huge bundle in a glass, right?

Before washing the plants, take a pair of sharp scissors and very clean, maybe disinfected with alcohol, and take a nice cut. Better than one big one that many small, so be decided.
Cut only the essential, since this operation stresserà the plant.

Then rinse, you may need to use the hose with a little 'pressure to clean up the roots well, and finally put into the cup.

Since strawberries have proved more costly than initially thought, I decided to leave a space between a plant and another, even considering the large size.
We'll see whether or leave everything as if once obtained new trees (clean, above!) Fill the tube.

WATER BUCKET, PAIL OF POTATOES

The two containers require exactly the same changes.
Col will practice drill a hole just narrower than the rubber tube, as low as possible so as to facilitate water drainage.
Then we block the hose with the metal piece, as seen previously, and siliconiamo.

The bucket of potatoes will simply drain the water in the tank, the water tank must be equipped with valve float. You can buy it or build it.

THE DRIPPERS

The potatoes have no need of a river of water, but of a nourishment regular and measured.
Here comes into play where the dripper.
Get two tees with a diameter compatible with your hose.
Take the tube, cut to size (slightly less than the circumference of the bucket) and practiced many holes with a pin.

Now cut the tube of supply, coming from the pump, and apponete the fitting to T. Reconnect the other end of the rubber that provides the PVC pipes, in the third exit insert another piece of pipe, long enough to reach the bottom of the bin of potatoes.
At the end of this will place the other T and on this the ring perforated that we have prepared before.

POTATO hydroponic

The hydroponics is not a technique excellent only for the plants that grow above the ground. With a little 'creativity and a good manual can be grown almost anything without soil.

Normally it is advisable to begin using certified seeds, healthy and chosen for optimum results. If you're impatient like me any potato with the "eye" (the round mark visible on the skin of the potato where the sprout comes out) or even a single slice will be fine.

The idea is to start planting the potato in the bottom of the bin, and add substrate during growth. This will get a bigger yield and a vertical growth.

Important notice: do not let the potatoes discoveries, this will make divetare green, and green potatoes are poisonous.

Put on the bottom of the bin a bit 'to improve drainage of clay, then place the potatoes and cover with the mix of vermiculite and perlite. Now place the dripper.

To ensure that light penetrates to the bottom of the bucket is good to use of the reflective material as the Mylar.
There rolls specifically for hydroponics and indoor growing, but given the price I prefer a nice family-size packet of crisps, cut and placed inside. Here's the light at last!

THE FLOATING VALVE

Attach the valve to the bucket so that the float both inside and the water can flow freely inside.
In my case greenhouse floor is the network, so I set the valve right there, on top of the bucket-tank.
Insert the hose into the valve and we are done.

Important: beware of the power cord, be warned it is not on the ground near water, but close up, safe in the event of spillage different and always in sight.

MAINTENANCE

At the plants may not get good water, so you will need to add from the first week.

Fertilizers
I have a small box of advanced fertilizer from another project, so I'll start with these. For the future I think of buying large quantities for long-term crops.
The powder fertilizers are generally two-component, simply follow the instructions on the box and fill the tanks with the solution in the right proportions.

It 's important to use specific fertilizers for hydroponics. Here there are microbes that transform substances such as Terren, so nutrients are administered pure.
Often you have specific nutrient for a given stage (vegetative, flowering, fruiting) and it is good to use at the time and right way to get the best results.

And 'rinse the tank well before use.

Lettuce and celery
While the strawberries are still producing, I'll have to pick lettuce and celery, to a certain point. I replaced them starting from seed. The cost of seeds is minimal, compared with what it costs to store the product.

RINSE

About once a month is a good idea to change the water whereas the plants have absorbed almost all the nutrients present.
So dis-connect the larger tank (I put a normal connection with shut-off valve on the hose).
We turn off the pump and we detach his hose.
Attach a piece of hose to pump riaccendiamola and use the remaining water for watering potted plants, or grass.

Be careful not to let the pump run dry at the end.
Now you can give a good cleaning the tank, reposition the tube and provide a refilling of the nutrient solution.

POTATO SUBMERSIBLE

My simplified hydroponics project has a small flaw: when it rains the container of potato is submerged below the tank and draining it does overflow.
Simple and inexpensive solution: a clear plastic as a cover, secured to withstand the wind.

Original Source: http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydroponic_Food_Factory/?ALLSTEPS

Freely translated according to the author Nathan Williams

Related Articles:

1. Hydroponics: a home system (part 1)
2. Hydroponics on the balcony of the house (part one)
3. Building a simple hydroponic system
4. Convert an aquarium in hydroponic system
5. Mini hydroponic system in minutes

Tags: self-sufficiency , build a idrosistema , construction , guides , basic hydroponics , hydroponics simplified , cultivation techniques

3 Responses to "Idoponica: a home system (part 2)"

Leave a Reply