Peppers, hot passion
peppers are grown as decorative plants and their fruits, which are used or fully mature unripe, in one of their many varieties.
These plants require similar conditions to those of the tomatoes to grow, although the best results are obtained with high humidity and temperature.
Suitable for outdoors in direct sunlight, however, give very excellent results in emissions; require maturation time long enough, it is therefore necessary to calculate the best time of sowing because the fruits have a chance to fully develop before the days shorten and the climate is cool. A good idea is to plant in early spring in a heated propagator and transplant when the last cold is over.
START
The watchword is organization: get labels and permanent markers to avoid mixing the seedlings once germination began.
You will then need a lot of compost and some sprouting trays, with cubes of rockwool or jiffy, which are compressed peat complete.
Their use is simple: inzuppateli very well for about five minutes and just put the seed inside. Be careful not to overdo the water, or the roots will suffocate.
As we have said is good to pay attention to the time of ripening, so for a good harvest indoors is the best time to start at the turn of February and March for most of the gene.
The germination can take up to 6 weeks, depending on the variety, at a temperature of 23-29 ° C, even if in most cases two weeks are sufficient.
A higher temperature can bring a faster germination, but also a higher percentage of seeds not hatched.
The light does not plays an important role in this phase, while it can be of help an electric heater and possibly a thermostat. In case you are not equipped with these accessories make note cover your seeds or place them in a Serretta to retain moisture and place them near a source of heat such as a heater (not too hot!) Or a household appliance. Arieggiateli regularly and pay close attention because the newly germinated seedlings need proper lighting.
As soon grew enough to be handled, with four true leaves, trapiantatele in individual 5 cm pots discarding the weaker plants, taking care not to damage the roots, giving them a good liquid fertilizer containing nitrogen, or perhaps as a specific " Chilli focus "Growth Technology (http://www.growthtechnology.com/nute-chillifocus.asp).
Nitrogen promotes plant growth and leaf, it is important at this stage of growth to maintain a temperature around 16 ° and good lighting.
After 8-12 weeks the plants should be big enough and strong to be retransplanted in a unheated greenhouse or outside, if weather permits.
For small genetic ornamental pot will be sufficient to obtain plants from 2-3 liters of half a meter with a good harvest, while the larger bushes require a 5-liter vessel and a support why not overturned, to get the best results are can place the plant directly in soil, as long as you are very sure of the placement (it seems trivial, but remember that the pots can be moved if necessary).
To make the chili you can cimarli bushier when they reach 15-20 cm in height, although the practice is usually only necessary with the kind Annum.
Very important is the regular watering, occasional watering can cause rot as flowers or fruit splitting.
Started flowering and appearance of the fruit you are going to add a fertilizer, irrigation water (suitable for that specific tomatoes) that help you get a perfect crop. Attention to weight, though: most production plants will need support to carry the weight of so many fruits, then placed the barrel in the ground to support the shafts or pulleys with cables hanging from the ceiling.
ARTIFICIAL LIGHT (with support from Tom Green greenshorticulture.co.uk)
The artificial lighting is now hugely popular in different types of crop, both to prolong the outdoor season that to bring to term complete cycles in interiors.
The lamp types are most often used compact fluorescent (CFL) and discharge (HID).
The compact is available in the blue spectrum (6400k) or red (2700k), in different wattages between 125 and 250. In our case the best is undoubtedly the blue, perfect for the propagation and growth, and particularly suitable for the cultivation of pepper, is associated with the use of a reflector and is equipped with internal power supply.
The red version, designed for flowering, may be associated with the first case of complete lack of sunshine, but it seems still insufficient for success in the final phase of the cycle.
So a 125w CFL is the best choice for a small propagator, but if you hurry, or ideal for further extensions will be a 200 or 250 watts. Do not forget to equip yourself with a timer to turn on and turn off the lights, giving your chillies 14-16 hours of light per day.
Discharge lamps (High Intensity Discharge, HID) are also available in red and the blue spectrum, are more powerful than the compact and thus more conducive to large areas.
The bulbs, metal halide (MH) are perfect for the early stages of growth: if the CFL, which produce a light almost cold, are much closer to the plants, the MH developed much heat must be set high. One of these bulbs 400w can cover an area of one square meter and can support the plants before flowering, when you switch to a HPS (sodium).
The latter have high yield, but are only indicated in the terminal phase of the cycle, to avoid a vertical growth uncontrolled. The HPS are usually purchased in size from 400 or 600 watts to utilize their full potential, preferably in the variant Grolux, or in a spectrum red with blue radiation.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
-How much illumination with these lamps?
The electricity is purchased 1000 watts per hour (kilowatts), and then 400w absorb 40% of a kilowatt.
If hypothetically you paid 10 euros for your lamp would consume one kilowatt hour for 4 euros all the time in which you hold on: check bill the cost of a kilowatt from your supplier and will be easy to face.
-It 's safe?
Absolutely, as long as you provide it increasingly by professionals. Attention to the high temperature reached by the bulbs.
-I just want to anticipate the time of year for the germination of light that I need?
Better a blue 200w compact, economical and simple to use.
-I want to grow indoors all year round, the light that I need?
A compact blue for the propagation, then a MH until the flowering stage and finally a HPS. There are convenient kit that can be purchased with different bulbs for an affordable price.
-What is the difference between a set of economic lighting and a more expensive?
Strange to say, but it is usually the reflector. The best are optimized to allow heat to disperse and to spread the light evenly, which tends to concentrate in "spot" with the use of the cheapest ones.
The high-tech reflectors are usually used for crops and crop varieties of value for scientific research, there is no need to invest a fortune to get good results with chiles.
-I read that it would be best to use a ventilation system in combination with artificial lighting. What does this mean?
The bulbs get very hot, so you may need to install a small puller to remove the hot air from the grow room and replace it with fresh and full of CO2 from the outside.
-I read that the electronic ballasts allow greater savings, right?
Generally not, for higher performance costs go up by force.
HYDROPONICS
This technical note can grow plants in a nutrient-rich solution, directly absorbed through the roots. Plants grown in this way have a radical apparatus particularly strong thanks to the contribution of oxygen, water and nourishment directly available and assimilable, without risks of excesses or deficiencies in the fertilization.
The plants grow faster, healthier and more resistant, and require less space between each and other.
And 'possible to work replacing the soil with substrates such as vermiculite, perlite, the balls of clay, fiber or coconut flakes and these will only serve as a support medium.
The fertilization happens thanks to the administration of appropriate products compounds especially from Potassium, Nitrogen and Phosphate, with traces of elements such as Calcium and Magnesium.
The hydroponic system can be active or passive in the first case the water is pumped out of the tank to the roots. In the NFT (Nutrient Film Technique) such plants are housed in a plastic tray on which runs a slightly inclined water film fertilized, and are supported by a mat of fibers. The wastewater flows into the reservoir due to the slope and fall into the circulation. The entire reserve is periodically replaced with fresh water and a new dose of nutrients (to know when replacement is necessary to operate the control value of EC).
Passive systems are simpler: the plant is in a container (jar or bag) containing a substrate, in which in turn is contained suspended inside of the nutrient solution.
HARVEST
Find out what must be the size of the ripe fruits of the variety you choose, and when you look ready controlled that looks are well polished and are firm to the touch. The peppers should be ripe to fully develop all the features, the best time for harvesting the fruits to be dried is when they start to change color. This stimulates the production of more flowers and fruits on the plant, while the already picked peppers will continue to accrue during the drying process until you reach the red color characteristic.
Fresh fruits will keep for about two weeks if kept in a sealed container in the refrigerator.
When handling hot varieties are good to wear gloves when removing seeds and stems, to avoid unpleasant irritation if you were to touch the face of distraction or worse, eyes or other sensitive parts. Such incidents are very frequent, crediatelo or less, can be very painful and very difficult to remedy (flushing is the watchword, but will continue to burn for a long time '!)
Drying is the oldest and most common method of preservation. Remove damaged or stained individuals that may grow mold and contaminate others and then choose a warm, dry day to arrange the peppers in a metal container to concentrate the sun's heat.
One method is equally valid nell'appenderli in a ventilated and dry.
Attention to the weather: if the weather is wet may be necessary to place them on a heat source such as a radiator, in a metal tray.
If you are true fans and live in an area that makes it difficult to process, get a dehydrator, which speeds drying and eliminates the risk of mold and wood rot. When perfectly dry fruits you can store them in airtight bags kept in the dark, or seeded and chopped into flakes or powder.
SEEDS
In anticipation of the next cycle a couple of dried chillies and ripe Draw out the seeds, which you can store in a sealed envelope, taking care to label it and store it in a dark, dry place.
Though you have only grown type is likely a case of cross-pollination, so that does not give a true species to the next crop cycle. Addition the percentage of germination of the seeds thus obtained will be lower than that of seeds purchased.
If grown for pleasure or to get fresh spices to your meals this should be no problem.
The cross-pollinations are due to several factors such as proximity of the plants, the number of insects, and wind conditions, to prevent it from happening you need to grow in a perfectly isolated, or use some sort of cover / canopy made of breathable material.
PROBLEMS AND infestations
Diseases are not common in peppers, but you need to monitor the cultivation especially when you move the plants in a warmer climate. Here's what you might encounter:
-Weakening of the stem due to attack of fungi to the stem of young plants. The stem tapers near the base until the collapse of the plant itself. Not much to do in these cases, you can always try to avoid using trays, containers and substrates cleaned well, hosing with water is not infected and using a fungicide as a preventive measure.
-Snails can cause minor damage tasting leaves or, if the population is large and young trees, to raze the entire cultivation.
You can limit the damage watering in the morning, seeing as the snails are most active at night and are more comfortable in a wet environment. If it is a few pots or a small extension on the ground you can put a layer of irregular, rough or sharp (pieces of bark, gravel, coffee beans).
The remedy most classic remains the trap, ie a container buried flush with the ground and filled of beer: the snails are attracted by the drink and drown.
These are all solutions for small farmers: speaking of large areas is good to consult your garden center to buy a specific product.
-Aphids: small insect pests that may occur throughout the cycle, but prefer the younger plants. They feed on sap and more insistently attack the buds, the buds and the underside of the leaves smaller. When the infestation is advanced the foliage may become sticky and black sooty mold present a, and can be detected on the plant and ground white scales.
The affected plant growth is stunted, the leaves bent and deformed
There are commercial sprays, soaps poor and to prevent and remedy this problem, especially if detected early. Otherwise you can opt for biological antagonists, such as ladybugs, bought at specialized centers.
Spider-red especially common in dry climates, due to the discoloration of the leaves and problems in plant development, and reproduces very quickly. Also in this case you can opt for one of the many products available or for a predator.
-Grey mold: the uneven watering can lead to sunken areas and brown on peppers, which will soon become soft and are covered with mold. To prevent this disease are well-spaced plants, providing adequate ventilation and a regular watering. It 'also important to remove dead leaves or damaged parts.
-Yellowing of the leaves: almost certainly it is a nutritional deficiency, use a complete fertilizer, perhaps based on algae and observe these dosages on the label and you should have further problems.
-Rotting end of flowering: Case dell'annaffiatura irregular, or of an excess of nitrogen, the tip of the fruits may darken and become springs. In this case, given calcium and regulate irrigation.
Source: http://www.chillisgalore.co.uk
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